After a successful inaugural Sydney Burgundy Celebration in 2014, the event returned with a series of tastings and dinners that looked to be excellent. Unfortunately due to my work schedule I was only able to attend one, the Iconic Wineries master class. This tasting was fantastic and I’m glad I was able to get along to it – thanks to Franck Moreau, Amanda Yallop, Sebastian Crowther and Nick Stock for organising and hosting this class.

The wines were served blind, I only knew based on the event description that there should be wines from Raveneau, Dauvissat, Roulot, Roumier, Rousseau and Domaine de la Romanee-Conti – but no vineyards, vintages or other information were provided until after tasting and discussing the two flights.

White Burgundy Flight

  • 2008 François Raveneau Chablis 1er Cru Montée de Tonnerre – France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    Mineral, spice, stonefruit and some light alcohol warmth on the nose. The palate shows more weight and ripeness than the mineral driven aromas – the balance is decent, but not great, with the density of the fruit really taking centre stage for now. The palate does has good texture and length and once revealed the intensity could be viewed as a classic trait of the winery style, but it didn’t quite resonate with me as other bottles of Raveneau have in the past. 88/100

  • 2004 Vincent Dauvissat (René & Vincent) Chablis 1er Cru La Forest – France, Burgundy, Chablis, Chablis 1er Cru

    A nose that is a little confrontational, but it undeniably interesting – truffled earth, orange peel, seaweed/iodine and a light saline chracter. The palate here doesn’t quite have the same complexity but it makes up for it with excellent texture and balance between rich but vibrant fruit and the powerful acidity. Still feels rather young and I can see room for further positive development. I liked it a lot, but I could see that the aromas may not be appealing to all. 91/100

  • 2012 Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru

    Sulphur up front and it really needed time in the glass to eventually show sea spray, smoke, a little bit of soapy florality and apple. The palate is the highlight for now, with a sense of power that is controlled and delivered with precision across very good length. I did get enjoyment out of trying this already, but I’d be hopeful that its best is yet to come. 92/100

  • 2012 Domaine Jacques Carillon Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru

    There is some immediate appeal with notes of pineapple and grapefruit as well as some lifted floral character and a moderate oak presence. The ripeness of the fruit is also quite forward on the palate, the acidity is well integrated but I’m not sure that it entirely keeps up with the fruit. Drinking fairly well now, it is good but all a little too obvious to be better than that for the moment. 89/100

  • 2011 Domaine Roulot Meursault 1er Cru Clos des Bouchères – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Meursault 1er Cru

    A fine combination of sesame, spice, white florals, orange peel and pear aromas. The mineral core that drives the palate is a highlight, with pure, delicate fruit in great balance and supporting superbly well. For me, the best length of the wines alongside it. There is something distinctly impressive about this wine. It was my stand out favourite of the flight and of the attendees along with the Leflaive. I believe this is the first vintage of this wine with Domaine managed fruit and it is a seriously compelling debut. 94/100

Red Burgundy Flight

  • 2009 Domaine Armand Rousseau Père et Fils Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Les Cazetiers – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru

    Both complex and pretty aromatics out of the glass right from the start, showing truffle, black cherry, blood and delicate roses. The palate continues with the same style and character. The fruit maybe feels a touch soft but some excellent acid really rushes through and gives it back a feeling of brightness and balance. Felt confident that this was the Rousseau and it obviously was. Already relatively approachable but it has the structure for it to show well for a long time to come. 92/100

  • 2011 Domaine du Clos de Tart Clos de Tart – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Clos de Tart Grand Cru

    One of the hardest wines to get a good read on in this flight. At first the nose is closed down but it did start to show some stalks, violets and a fair bit of earth. The red fruits on the palate did have more presence along with good length and acidity. I’m not loving this right now and would want to see it with a serious amount more time in the bottle. I was not surprised when its identity was revealed as I tried it one year ago and it was rather introverted, with this bottle probably showing even more so. 90/100

  • 2012 Domaine G. Roumier / Christophe Roumier Morey St. Denis 1er Cru Clos de La Bussière – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Morey St. Denis 1er Cru

    Purple coloured. Earthy spices launch out of the glass and are complimented by black cherry, licorice, dark florals and a background lines with oak. I expected the palate to have significant density based on the aromas but the fruit is not in that style, it does have brightness but there is also restraint and the good structure behind it helps to bring it all together. Overall it seems rather nicely balanced with plenty of youthful appeal already, but also a promising future ahead. 91/100

  • 2011 Domaine Comte Georges de Vogüé Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru

    Violets, red cherry, raspberry and a light spice element, this is a bright and pure nose initially that does starts to show some layers after time in the glass. The tannins are the driving force behind the wine, they are very fine and work well to provide grip to the vivacious fruit elements. If this builds up some complexity with further ageing then it will be superb. 91/100

  • 2010 Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Echezeaux – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Echezeaux Grand Cru

    An exotic nose with wild roses, musk, cherry, five spice and a very light stalk note that gives it another element of complexity. Opens with great power, but also great balance, structure and responsibility. A savoury streak runs across its length and provides it with yet another dimension where it already has significant depth. Finishes with precision and excellent length. A clear table favourite well before its identity was revealed. For me this was a touch ahead of the 2009 DRC Echezeaux that I tried and loved a couple of years ago but both are superb. 94/100

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