Dalwhinnie

  • 2010 Dalwhinnie Shiraz Moonambel Pyrenees – Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Pyrenees
    Tobacco, kirsch, tar and some (but not over the top) cedar. The palate is quite dense with pure and powerful fruit and enough tannins to keep it structured. Extremely young, it probably needs another 10 years at least to really shine. 91/100

  • 2009 Dalwhinnie Shiraz Moonambel Pyrenees – Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Pyrenees
    Menthol, smoked meat, plum and graphite. Less overt powerful fruit than the 2010, but also more depth to go along with the restraint. Balanced and quite approachable already, it will still age well over the medium term (say 6-7 years) as it has fine tannin structure. 91/100

  • 2008 Dalwhinnie Shiraz Moonambel Pyrenees – Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Pyrenees
    Pepper, some tar, blackcurrant and earth on the nose. Ripe and powerful fruit on the palate, there is some spice to give it more than superficial fruit interest. I did like this but it was just a touch behind the vintages surrounding it (10,09,07). 90/100

  • 2007 Dalwhinnie Shiraz Moonambel Pyrenees – Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Pyrenees
    More dark floral notes here than the following vintages (08,09,10), along with blackberry, five spice and a light remnant of cedar from the deft oak use. The palate exudes class, there is superior balance between fruit, oak and tannin along with brilliant length. Drink over the next 10 years. 92/100

  • 2010 Dalwhinnie Cabernet Sauvignon Moonambel Pyrenees – Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Pyrenees
    Plenty of menthol along with mint, redcurrant and spices on the nose. There is good concentration of fruit on the palate, the menthol doesn’t come through as much but it is still there. Overall it shows balance and potential to develop. 90/100

Yeringberg

  • 2010 Yeringberg Marsanne/Roussanne – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
    60% Marsanne, 40% Roussanne. I liked the nose – lemon, cinnamon and white floral aromas. There is tense acidity on the palate, but for now it lacks spark. 88/100

  • 2011 Yeringberg Viognier – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
    Peach, apricot and white floral notes on the nose. The palate is more restrained, with some good acidity and drive. 88/100

  • 2009 Yeringberg Chardonnay – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
    Citrus peel, stone fruit and some light spice notes. The palate shows good restraint and persistence. This was better than I expected and I think it will drink well over the next 4-5 years. 89/100

  • 2010 Yeringberg Pinot Noir – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
    Very floral nose, there is also some mint, raspberry and stalk. Medium bodied red fruit on the palate, it needs some more depth and texture. 88/100

  • 2010 Yeringberg Shiraz – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
    Good complexity to the nose, with cloves, barbecue sauce, plums and some holy basil and menthol. Medium body and length with a savoury tilt to it. 89/100

  • 2010 Yeringberg – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
    A nose of cherry, smoked meat, tobacco, cassis and dark florals. There is good vibrancy on the palate, it is predominantly savoury but there is lifted fruit as well and great texture. Was drinking quite well now but should be good for the next 10 years also. 91/100

Masterclass: Bass Phillip Pinot Noir Premium and others tasted later

  • 2010 Bass Phillip Chardonnay Estate – Australia, Victoria, Gippsland
    Oats, some spice, melon and grapefruit aromas. Palate is rounded out by some sweet fruit but offset by good acidity. 89/100

  • 2010 Bass Phillip Pinot Noir The Crown Prince – Australia, Victoria, Gippsland
    Cherry, some bramble and just a slight earthy note. The palate shows some tasty and supple red fruits while maintaining a savoury edge. Approachable and drinking nicely already. 89/100

  • 2010 Bass Phillip Pinot Noir Estate – Australia, Victoria, Gippsland
    Stalks, briar, violets and cherry on the nose. The palate continues the savoury earthen trend and is paired with good structure through the fine tannin. Good and should improve over the medium term. 90/100

  • 2007 Bass Phillip Pinot Noir Estate – Australia, Victoria, Gippsland
    Cherry, plum and some leather and spice – reminded me more of a wine in the medium aged Hunter Valley mould on the nose. The palate is extremely elegant and restrained, just hinting at some sweet fruit in the background. Good length with the tannins providing plenty of grip. Drink over the next 4-5 years. 90/100

  • 2010 Bass Phillip Pinot Noir Premium – Australia, Victoria, Gippsland
    Unique nose of salami, tobacco, red cherry and violets – I found this really appealing even though it sounds slightly strange. The palate is long and restrained, with medium bodied red fruits and a very lengthy finish. Impressive even now, in 7-8 years I think it will be even better. 92/100

  • 2009 Bass Phillip Pinot Noir Premium – Australia, Victoria, Gippsland
    My favourite wine of the night. Intensely fragrant and floral nose of rose petals, earth, cherry and subtle spices. The palate is brilliant – it has amazing focus and structure and even though it is youthful, there is a layered complexity to it that just takes this to another level. Superb length and a stunning wine overall. 94/100

  • 1995 Bass Phillip Pinot Noir Premium – Australia, Victoria, Gippsland
    Smoked meats, with autumn leaves and sour cherry aromas. The palate is lightly fruited and shows excellent complexity. Was drinking at, or just past, its peak. 90/100

  • 1987 Bass Phillip Pinot Noir Premium – Australia, Victoria, Gippsland
    From magnum, but opened two days prior by the winemaker. VA and leather on the nose, with some smoke and tobacco notes. The palate is better than the nose, the is well balanced and still showing some good acidity. Hard to call since it was opened so long beforehand, but the nose was tired and I wish I could have tried it when opened.

  • 2010 Bass Phillip Pinot Noir Reserve – Australia, Victoria, Gippsland
    A serious nose with black cherry, earth, truffle and just a background hint of raspberry and game. There is a bit more fruit density here on the palate than the 2010 Premium but retains the great depth and structure. Very classy wine. 92/100

A quick photo from a visit to one of my favourite vineyards, Corton-Charlemagne in between Aloxe-Corton and Pernand-Verglesses.

Masterclass: Bannockburn Chardonnay SRH

  • 2008 Bannockburn Chardonnay S.R.H. – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Geelong
    Nutty and floral aromas mingling with some citrus and peach. There is texture and interest on the palate, with well weighted fruit intensity balanced by good acidity. 91/100

  • 2001 Bannockburn Chardonnay S.R.H. – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Geelong
    Honey, guava, some butter and hay aromas. The palate has developed as well but there isn’t enough depth and there is a very small out of place spirity twinge to the finish. Drink now. 88/100

  • 1997 Bannockburn Chardonnay S.R.H. – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Geelong
    Layered nose of cashew, honey, mandarin and pear. The palate is developed but it shows a fresh lift through excellent acid and well held structure and powerful fruit, leading to a long finish. While I don’t think it will fall over soon, it is near its peak and drinking well right now for my taste. Much better than a “standard” ’97 Bannockburn Chardonnay I had 5-6 years ago that was in danger of falling over already. 92/100

Masterclass: Tarrawarra Pinot Noir Reserve

  • 2010 Tarrawarra Pinot Noir Reserve – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
    Tight nose, but opened up quickly in the glass to reveal violets, cherry, tobacco and stalks. The palate is lithe, with restrained red fruit and some textural elements to give interest. There is enough here to convince me that it will improve over 5-6 years. 90/100

  • 2008 Tarrawarra Pinot Noir Reserve – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
    Cherry, raspberry, some violets and stalks. The palate is nicely balanced between savoury and spice notes with some plush fruit. Good length, this is a good wine and should develop well over the medium term. 89/100

  • 2004 Tarrawarra Pinot Noir Reserve – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
    Brilliantly complex nose of forest floor, roses and aging autumn leaves. The palate unfortunately does not quite deliver the same depth and complexity. It is fine, decently balanced, but without the same interest factor. Drink now. 88/100

Masterclass: Bindi Pinot Noir Block 5 and others tasted later

  • NV Bindi Cuvée III – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
    A blend of fruit from 1993 to 1997, spending 13 years on lees in bottle and with zero dosage. The nose shows toast, hay, lemon, spice and some appealing nutty character. There is a richness to the palate that is delicious and balanced out by fine, fresh acidity. A serious and seriously good wine. 91/100

  • 2010 Bindi Chardonnay Quartz – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
    Lemon peel, spice, minerality and a hint of oak. The palate is well balanced with fruit intensity and depth. Drink over the next 3-4 years. 90/100

  • 2010 Bindi Pinot Noir Original Vineyard – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
    Lovely floral perfume on the nose, there is also some earth, cherry and five spice. The palate is a pleasing mix of savoury elements and restrained red fruit. I’ve had this three times in the last year and it has been consistently very good. 91/100

  • 2010 Bindi Pinot Noir Block 5 – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
    Appealing nose of black cherry, olive, earth and roses. Palate is bright, with some depth to it and powerful coiled fruit power lurking. Great length and very good potential to improve. 90/100

  • 2005 Bindi Pinot Noir Block 5 – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
    From magnum. Earth, violets, fresh red cherries and spice. The palate has immense power but the structure is in place to keep it reigned in and balanced. Exceptional length and genuinely superb depth. My faith has been restored after a disappointing 2006 Block 5 recently. Keeping in mind this was from magnum, I think it will continue to develop over the next 10 years. 93/100

  • 2000 Bindi Pinot Noir Block 5 – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
    From double magnum. I loved the aromas on this – forest floor, smoked meats, cherry and a hint of truffle. The palate is complex and textured, it has obvious age and has almost all its components resolved. I would drink this now (especially since this sample came from a 3L bottle). 91/100

Over the next few weeks I’ll be posting some notes from this recent tasting at Customs House in Sydney, Australia.

Crawford River

  • 2011 Crawford River Riesling Young Vines – Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Henty
    Appealing, youthful nose of florals, pineapple and honeydew melon. Palate has a crisp line of acidity and good length. 89/100

  • 2005 Crawford River Riesling – Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Henty
    Honey, a pinch of smoke, lime and a fair bit of kerosene (which I happen to like). Palate is showing significant development, it is still kept fresh by the acidity but I think this is best consumed in the near future. 88/100

Craiglee

  • 2009 Craiglee Chardonnay – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Sunbury
    Cashew, oats and some citrus. On the palate the mouthfeel occasionally feels like it is tipping towards being overly rich, but it pulls back just in time. Interesting but I wasn’t particularly smitten. 88/100

  • 2008 Craiglee Shiraz Viognier – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Sunbury
    Tobacco, raspberry and light lifted violets. The palate is bright, showing ripe red fruits along with good length and texture. 89/100

  • 2009 Craiglee Shiraz – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Sunbury
    Some smoked bacon, cherry, five spice and raspberry aromas. The palate is savoury, hinting at mixed spices with good length and restrained red fruit. I thought this was very good but lacking a little magic. 89/100

  • 2010 Craiglee Shiraz – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Sunbury
    Stalks, tar and smoke comprise the nose. The palate is more rounded in flavour, with some darker fruits evident but the stalky character still sticks out right through to the finish. Maybe it just needs time to settle down in bottle, but it wasn’t quite balanced right now. 88/100

Masterclass: Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay Robinson Vineyard

  • 2010 Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay Robinson Vineyard – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Mornington Peninsula
    Tight nose, some melon and light white florals. The palate is rounded while having some decent acidity to keep it from being too round, but there is an overall lack of depth. It may just need time but it wasn’t impressive now. I looked this up on their website and it is $55 a bottle, an easy pass. 88/100

  • 2009 Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay Robinson Vineyard – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Mornington Peninsula
    Oats, some spice and very light honey. The palate is rounded and medium length, it struggles with a lack of acidity and interest. 86/100

  • 2008 Moorooduc Estate Chardonnay Robinson Vineyard – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Mornington Peninsula
    Pineapple, some quince and light nutty aromas. The palate offers okay fruit intensity, but it is lacking in depth. Similar to the 2009, it could use more acidity to brighten and given the palate focus. 86/100

Generated via Wordle. 3500 of my tasting notes used as the base, with common words like “the”, “of”, “and” removed.

This event with my monthly tasting group had a theme of Italian grape varieties and looking at how they were faring in Australia. Despite a long history of Italian immigration in Australia, Italian grape based wines are relatively uncommon, although this is finally now starting to change.

It was an excellent tasting, and in my opinion the Australian wines tended to hold their own in terms of interest and complexity against the examples in each flight from their native Italy despite differing styles in many cases. I’m looking forward to seeing how Australian producers continue their development with these grapes.

Prosecco

  • NV Furlan Prosecco Superiore Extra Dry – Italy, Veneto, Prosecco di Conegliano-Valdobbiadene
    Grape, musk, lemon and green apple on the nose. Acid is strong and cleansing on the palate, but there is little depth to it. Simple and refreshing but no more. 85/100

  • 2010 Dal Zotto Prosecco L’Immigrante – Australia, Victoria, North East, King Valley
    Nutty, grapefruit and a touch of florality to the nose. The palate has better fruit power and more interest than the Furlan and still has the cleansing acidity keeping it vibrant. 88/100

Pinot Grigio

  • 2011 Pizzini Pinot Grigio Whitefields – Australia, Victoria, North East, King Valley
    Nettle, light almond and a green edge to the nose. The palate starts off rich but starts fading throughout the mid-palate. Somewhat interesting but I didn’t really enjoy it. 82/100

  • 2011 Primo Estate Pinot Grigio Joseph d’Elena – Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
    Peaches and strong floral aromas, with some green apple and lime. The palate is well balanced, there is a good fruit intensity to it along with some depth and texture. Interesting wine that is drinking well now. 90/100

  • 2010 Kris Pinot Grigio Venezie IGT – Italy, Veneto, Venezie IGT
    Light gold coloured. Floral nose, with banana, pear and pineapple. The palate shows some nice roundness, but there is a touch of alcohol standing out on the finish that is distracting. 86/100

Sangiovese Flight 1

  • 2010 Coriole Sangiovese – Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
    Smoky oak, some citrus and violet aromas. The palate is florally lifted and quite pleasant, with medium length. 88/100

  • 2007 Coriole Sangiovese Reserve – Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
    Earth, dried prunes, graphite and tomato leaf on the nose. The palate fades a little bit at the end, but is otherwise pleasantly savoury with the tannins there but not overbearing. Drink now for my taste. 87/100

  • 1998 Coriole Lloyd Reserve – Australia, South Australia, Fleurieu, McLaren Vale
    Served blind. 76% Sangiovese, 18% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Merlot. A nose of tobacco, leather, mint and violets. The palate is almost fully resolved, but there is still enough structure to hold it together. I guessed that it was about 20 years old, so it is probably best consumed soon based on this bottle. 89/100

Sangiovese Intermission

  • 2001 Penfolds Sangiovese Cellar Reserve – Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
    Cinnamon, graphite and earth on the nose. Palate has some appealing sweet and juicy red fruits, balanced by integrated acidity. Lovely drinking, at its peak. 90/100

Sangiovese Flight 2

  • 2009 Vinea Marson Sangiovese – Australia, Victoria, Central Victoria, Heathcote
    Graphite & tar with some raspberry and milk chocolate. The palate is red fruit driven, balanced nicely by tannin structure and there is a minerality to it that gives it freshness. 90/100

  • 2006 Castagna Sangiovese La Chiave – Australia, Victoria, North East, Beechworth
    Pepper, black cherry, smoke and olives on the nose. The palate is nicely savoury and there is good depth and length, should drink well over the next 5 years. 91/100

  • 2007 Isole e Olena Cepparello Toscana IGT – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    I found the nose on this appealing – mocha, red cherry, vanilla and some liquorice. The palate is very tight and grippy, with prominent but fine tannins. Give it another 4-5 years to open up. 91/100

Nebbiolo Flight 1

  • 2003 Pizzini Nebbiolo – Australia, Victoria, North East, King Valley
    A nose of orange rind and pencil shavings. Medium bodied and has taken on some secondary characters, while not being extremely complex. Drinking well now and should do so for the next couple of years. 88/100

  • 2009 Pizzini Nebbiolo – Australia, Victoria, North East, King Valley
    A pretty nose of violets and roses, with some smoky bacon notes. The palate is vibrant and has good intensity. Youthful but very open and appealing. 89/100

  • 2003 Pizzini Nebbiolo Coronamento – Australia, Victoria, North East, King Valley
    Good complexity on the nose – menthol, smoke, horse hide, liquorice and cedar. The palate is very savoury, with the oak and acidity still evident. Medium length, this was good but not great. 88/100

Nebbiolo Flight 2

  • 2010 Fletcher Nebbiolo – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
    Cherry and redcurrant, with some earth and graphite on the nose. The palate is red fruit dominant, there are tannins there but the fruit washes over them. Good length and intensity of flavour, this is an interesting wine. 90/100

  • 2010 Fletcher Nebbiolo Malakoff Estate – Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Pyrenees
    The nose shows caramelised onion, pine, smoke and autumn leaves. The palate shows a large dose of vanilla oak initially before the fruit and firm tannins takes over. Youthful and could probably benefit from some more time in the bottle. This is a much bigger wine on the palate than the 2010 Adelaide Hills Nebbiolo from Fletcher, but it is equally as interesting. 90/100

  • 2008 Giuseppe Cortese Barbaresco Rabajà – Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barbaresco
    Smoky Spanish chorizo, tobacco and red berries on the nose. The palate is intense and mouthfilling, while maintaining structure and focus throughout the mid-palate into the full and long finish. Still primary, this will benefit from another 5-7 years in the bottle. 90/100

Nebbiolo Flight 3

  • 2006 Elio Grasso Barolo Ginestra “Vigna Casa Maté” – Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Barolo
    Powerful nose of smoke, cherry, tobacco and redcurrant. The palate has superb density and length, and just continued to build and improve with time in the glass. This is a giant wine that is mostly impressive for its potential in 10+ years at this point, but I still enjoyed trying it and hope to see it again in the future. 92/100

  • 2008 S.C. Pannell Nebbiolo – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Adelaide Hills
    Tar, cherry and dusty aromas. The palate is medium length and has quite sweet fruit. Nice but not up to the standard in terms of depth, texture and interest of the other two wines in this flight. 87/100

  • 2009 Giaconda Nebbiolo – Australia, Victoria, North East, Beechworth
    I loved the nose on this – rose petals, tar, some brown sugar and red cherries. The palate is delicious – powerful layers of red fruit, acidity and tanning supporting each other into a fantastic long finish. 92/100

Nebbiolo Surprise Flight

  • 1997 Gaja Langhe Nebbiolo Sorì San Lorenzo – Italy, Piedmont, Langhe, Langhe DOC
    Complex and beguiling nose of raspberry, blackcurrant, violets, tar, cocoa and tobacco. The palate is superb, it is concentrated but classy and brilliantly balanced simultaneously. This wine is a step up in depth and structure over those that preceded it, and while it was beautiful now I think it will be even better in 6-7 years time. 94/100

Random Extra Wine Flight 1

  • 2007 Warrabilla Durif Reserve – Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
    Served blind. Glass-straining purple coloured. Massive nose of almonds, raspberry compote, blackberry and tar. The palate matches the intensity of the nose, with huge fruit and intensity. The alcohol is high but it doesn’t actually stand out as the fruit is powerful enough to dominate. It has good length and it is an impressive wine, but not really appealing to me. 88/100

Random Extra Wine Flight 2

  • 1997 Redbank Winery Sally’s Paddock – Australia, Victoria, Western Victoria, Pyrenees
    Served blind. Five spice and spice dominate the nose, there is also some earth and red cherries. The palate is resolved and well balanced, with very good length. It is drinking really well and is near its peak and ready to be consumed. 91/100

  • 1995 Bannockburn Shiraz – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Geelong
    Served blind. Green nose of stalks, capsicum, tomato leaf and some earthy coffee. The palate is resolved and is better than the nose, but lacks complexity and tapers away slightly short. I thought this was at its peak 7 years ago when I last tasted it, and I think that it is confirmed by this bottle. 83/100

Dessert

  • 1976 Weingut der Stadt Frankfurt a. Main Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Auslese – Germany, Rheingau
    Fantastic nose of honey, ginger and spices, with some floral notes and a background layer of kerosene. The palate has compelling acidity that really lifts the wine and gives it focus through the delicious sweetness. This bottle was at a good drinking point in its life now, but there are no signs that it is falling over in the near future. 93/100

Fortified

  • NV Stanton & Killeen Rutherglen Topaque – Australia, Victoria, North East, Rutherglen
    Christmas cake, ginger and some honey aromas. The palate has nice richness and decent length without being overly deep or complex. 89/100

Following on with my wine bar tour in Toronto, Union 72 was next on the hitlist, with 9 local Canadian wines available by the glass.

Organic greens, potato rosti, chevre, Union smoked bacon

I was given a seat at the bar by the front window and ordered the Organic greens, potato rosti, chevre and Union smoked bacon to start. The bacon gave the dish a delicious punch to compliment the creamy goats cheese and salad vinaigrette. The warm, crisp potato rosti was very pleasant as well.

Organic greens

With the greens, I had the following wines;

2010 Fielding Estate Winery Pinot Gris Estate Bottled (Canada, Ontario, Niagara Peninsula, Niagara Peninsula VQA) – 12% alc, 10 g/l residual sugar

I loved the richness with this wine. Fig, pear and nuts on the nose. The palate is delicious, there is fruit richness with corresponding acid to play off as well as a tantalising lick of residual sugar and textural interest. I found this to be quite Alsatian in style and extremely impressive overall. 92/100

2009 Hidden Bench Nuit Blanche Estate Bottled Rosomel Vineyard (Canada, Ontario, Niagara Peninsula, Beamsville Bench VQA) – 89.7% Sauvignon Blanc 10.3% Semillon

Golden coloured. The nose opens with wax and citrus, then a line of smoke in the background. The trail of smoke continues on the palate but I found it added interest to the wine rather than overwhelming the other elements. Good acidity and carry to the finish. 91/100

Steak hachette – freshly ground Scotch Mountain beef seared on the outside, rare on the inside, topped with a fried egg, served with frites

For the main course, I had the Steak hachette. This was a simple dish in some ways, there are 4-5 components and nothing overly flashy technique wise, but it tasted great, the beef was seared nicely and rare on the inside then the pinch of habanero salsa on the side had an excellent kick to it.

Steak Hachette

The following wines were tasted with the steak;

2008 Lailey Vineyard Meritage (Canada, Ontario, Niagara Peninsula, Niagara River VQA) – 12.5% alc, close split between Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc

Stalks and iron with a bit of cherry and white pepper on the nose. The palate is dominated and unbalanced by stalk character, with not enough fruit. The tannin and oak structure in the background actually seems quite good, but I can’t get over the stalks. 85/100

2010 Karlo Estates Cabernet Franc (Canada, Ontario, Prince Edward County VQA) – 12% alc

Aromas of nutmeg, red cherry and ground coffee. The palate is quite gamey, with savoury red cherry flavour coming through strongly. Decent tannins and balance, quite a good wine overall. 89/100

Overall the experience at Union 72 was very good, the food was well executed and the flavours were allowed to shine through. The wines that I tried were, for the most part, very good and the Fielding Estate Pinot Gris was one of the wine highlights on the trip.

A fun dinner recently with most of my regular group. No particular theme but thanks to some serious generosity, we ended up with a pair of the best wines I’ve had this year, plus plenty of other highlights. Checking cellartracker under 1% of my scores are 93 or higher, so when a pair of wines are this good they are really into very special territory in my opinion.

  • NV Pierre Gerbais Champagne L’Originale – France, Champagne
    100% Pinot Blanc. Chalk, apple and some cookies on the nose. Good mouthfeel and balance, with a splash of fruit sweetness rounding out the edges. 89/100

  • 2005 Etienne Sauzet Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Champ-Canet – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru
    Oatmeal, apple and butter with some stone fruit aromas as well. Slightly broad on the palate, but it has good drive and finishes long. 90/100

  • 2008 Kooyong Chardonnay Faultline – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Mornington Peninsula
    Aromas of smoke and candlewax with pear notes supporting. Fresh acid drives and lifts the palate, there is good restraint here and appealing minerality. 90/100

  • 1992 Faiveley Corton-Charlemagne – France, Burgundy, Côte de Beaune, Corton-Charlemagne Grand Cru
    Toasty nose with popcorn, honey, spice and a touch of ginger. The palate is finely balanced, it is developing but it has retained richness and has excellent length. Drink over the next 5 years. 92/100

  • 2008 Domaine du Collier Saumur Le Charpentrie – France, Loire Valley, Anjou-Saumur, Saumur
    Wild nose – earth, graphite, hay and pear. The palate has good texture and has plenty of points of interest. 88/100

  • 2009 Jean Foillard Morgon Côte du Py Cuvée 3.14 – France, Burgundy, Beaujolais, Morgon
    Complex nose of pencil shavings, bacon, cinnamon and stalks. Concentrated savoury fruit on the palate, it has good length and structure. Intense but not overbearing and one of the more enjoyable Beaujolais wines I’ve had. 90/100

  • 2008 Domaine Louis Boillot et Fils Chambolle-Musigny – France, Burgundy, Côte de Nuits, Chambolle-Musigny
    Tight and ungiving nose, with some cherry after vigorous swirling. The palate is in a similar mould, with tannins at the fore and an austere finish. May just need some time, but I’m not sure it will come around. 85/100

  • 2006 Bindi Pinot Noir Block 5 – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Macedon Ranges
    The nose is quite intense with black cherry, some smoke and a nutty background character. The palate is more restrained but it trails off slightly prematurely. Still very good, but I expect more from this wine. 88/100

  • 1997 Domaine Jean-Louis Chave Hermitage – France, Rhône, Northern Rhône, Hermitage
    Strong funky barnyard with earth and leather characters as well as some raspberry and olive struggling to be noticed. The palate is cleaner, showing medium body, good structure and texture with interest. For me the brett on the nose was too far past the interesting complexity level and a detriment to this particular bottle. 90/100

  • 2002 Tenuta San Guido Guidalberto Toscana IGT – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    Stalks, graphite, black pepper and some leafynotes. Well balanced, but it doesn’t have the depth and interest of a top level wine. Still enjoyable and I think it is in its prime drinking window now and in the near future. 89/100

  • 1998 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli – Italy, Tuscany, Montalcino, Brunello di Montalcino
    Tasted double blind. Leather, smoked meats, cherry and light floral notes on the nose. Palate is powerful but it is focused rather than explosive. Drinking very nicely right now and over the next 5-7 years. 92/100

  • 2007 Tenuta dell’Ornellaia Masseto Toscana IGT – Italy, Tuscany, Toscana IGT
    Tasted double-blind. Incredibly rich but also complex nose of liquorice, blackberry, graphite, violets and tobacco. Massive palate in both fruit and structure, which makes the balance and class even more impressive. Very young but still possible to enjoy it now, it should look even better in another 10 years. 95/100

  • 2000 Giuseppe Quintarelli Amarone della Valpolicella – Italy, Veneto, Valpolicella, Amarone della Valpolicella
    An nose with incredible lift and intensity – kirsch, graphite, dark chocolate, raisins and blackberry. The palate balance was unbelievable, it is intensely rich and has huge structure but it is somehow seamless at the same time. Shows depth, complexity and superb length. An icon with huge expectations and it rose way above them somehow, just magic stuff. Quite probably this is the best wine I’ve had so far this year. 97/100

  • 1985 Fritz Haag Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese – Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Shy on the nose straight out of the bottle, it opens up eventually to show apple, honey and some pine. The palate is drier than I expected, with only a slight richness remaining and giving a more off-dry impression. The palate is holding its freshness and acidity well, it has good length as well. A nice wine for the vintage, but doesn’t have the depth of a truly great wine. 90/100

A recent Riesling focused tasting.

  • 2007 Taltarni Clover Hill Sparkling – Australia, Tasmania, Northern Tasmania
    Citrus, cookies and hay on the nose. A touch of dosage on the palate is pleasant and there is good texture and some depth of flavour here. Very good. 89/100
  • 2001 Jacob’s Creek/Orlando Riesling Steingarten – Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
    Touch of kerosene with lime and some honey. Palate is starting to move into secondary characters. Good length and extremely drinkable. 91/100
  • 2002 Jacob’s Creek/Orlando Riesling Steingarten – Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
    Lovely, complex aromatics – floral, spices, toast and citrus. Palate has excellent depth and length along with complexity matching the nose. Superb now and getting better as it develops. 93/100
  • 2003 Jacob’s Creek/Orlando Riesling Steingarten – Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
    Light floral notes with musk, honey and chalk. Palate has some richness to it, finishing crisp and clean. In a good spot for drinking now, it isn’t in danger of falling over but I think it won’t improve much. 90/100
  • 2005 Jacob’s Creek/Orlando Riesling Steingarten – Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
    Very youthful and closed on the nose with some spice and citrus coming through after time. The palate is closed as well but there is potential here, it just isn’t showing what it has to offer right now. 88/100
  • 2004 Jim Barry Riesling Florita Watervale – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Watervale
    Lime, floral and youthfully lifted nose. There is a great deal of fruit character on the palate, supported by a good acid drive. Good length. Significantly better than the young wine I tried 7 years ago. 89/100
  • 2005 Trevor Jones Riesling Reserve – Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
    Floral, orange peel and lemon on the nose. Palate has decent richness but there isn’t that much depth to it. Good but not great. 87/100
  • 2004 Rockford Riesling Eden Valley – Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Eden Valley
    Herbaceous element stands out on the nose and there is also a touch of alcohol. The palate is bland and mediocre. 84/100
  • 2008 Chateau Ste. Michelle & Dr. Loosen Riesling Eroica – USA, Washington, Columbia Valley
    Mineral driven nose with some citrus and spice. The palate is off dry and is very appealing, the touch of sweetness not standing apart from the fruit and tempered by good acid. Delicious. 91/100
  • 2009 Domaine Ostertag Riesling Vignoble d’E – France, Alsace, Haut-Rhin, Alsace AOC
    Some late harvest rich character on the nose and tropical fruits. The palate is rich and has good length. 89/100
  • 2007 Stift Göttweig Riesling Kremstal DAC Reserve Silberbichl – Austria, Niederösterreich, Kremstal
    Rich and ripe nose of citrus, pepper and mango. The palate is spicy and peppery, almost Gruner like in style. Could use a touch more depth and brightness but it is quite good anyway. 88/100
  • 2010 Grosset Riesling Polish Hill – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Polish Hill
    Extremely youthful. Lemon and minerals on the nose. Palate is dry, long and the acid is prominent. Needs time but I think it is well positioned for development. 90/100
  • 2001 Grosset Riesling Polish Hill – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Polish Hill
    Wax, honey, hay and wet rocks. The palate is honeyed and well balanced, with good acid still. A good wine, but I’m not sure that it will benefit from any more significant aging. 90/100
  • 1994 Taylors Riesling St Andrews – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
    Into the plateau of it’s development, this is excellent now with honeyed complexity and lovely length. Really super drinking right now. 92/100
  • 2011 Auburn Riesling Alexandra – New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago
    Floral nose, with violets and rose petals. Palate is evidently off-dry, it is a touch soft, needing a bit more brightness – but still very pleasant to drink. 88/100
  • 2011 Auburn Riesling – New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago Bendigo
    Candy apple and lime on the nose. Feels like 50-60 grams residual sugar on the palate which is decently balanced with acidity. A good wine without being compelling. 88/100
  • 2011 Mount Edward Riesling Drumlin – New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago
    Floral bath salts, lemon and spice. Lovely acid line and excellent balance. Very tasty wine now and should develop well. 90/100
  • 2011 Felton Road Riesling Block 1 – New Zealand, South Island, Otago, Central Otago
    Lemon, hay and mixed spices. Great lift on the off-dry palate from the acid structure. Very good length. 90/100
  • 2007 Joh. Jos. Prüm Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese – Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Given a good decant but still took time in the glass to open up and even then it was all minerals and chalk with faint citrus fruit. The palate has delicious richness and exceptional length. Screams potential but needs time. 92/100
  • 2007 Reinhold Haart Piesporter Domherr Riesling Spätlese – Germany, Mosel Saar Ruwer
    Green tinged straw colour. Stone fruit, earth and minerals on the nose. Palate has some delicious sweetness to it but needs some time to develop out of this primary phase. 89/100
  • 1975 Hof Sonneck Johannisberger Hölle Riesling – Germany, Rheingau
    A little bit musty initially but this blew off. There is some caramel, marmalade and ginger on the nose. Palate is honeyed and holding well, but there is little complexity. 87/100
  • 1990 Freiherr Langwerth von Simmern Hattenheimer Mannberg Riesling Spätlese trocken – Germany, Rheingau
    Some almond, smoke and grapefruit on the nose. The palate is a touch wooden and doesn’t have much character. Only okay. 87/100
  • 2006 Argyle Pinot Noir Reserve – USA, Oregon, Willamette Valley
    Mint, cherry and oak on the nose. The palate is more savoury and earthy, with nice balance and length. 88/100
  • 2008 De Bortoli Riorret The Abbey Vineyard – Australia, Victoria, Port Phillip, Yarra Valley
    Interesting nose of roast meat, violets, earth and cherries. The palate doesn’t quite have as much character and leans into being a little bit too lean for its own good. 88/100
  • 1997 Penfolds Shiraz RWT – Australia, South Australia, Barossa, Barossa Valley
    Nose of cinnamon and red currant. Fragmented, unimpressive palate with alcohol and tannins sticking out. Maybe a bad bottle but there was no overt fault. 87/100
  • 1997 Wendouree Shiraz – Australia, South Australia, Mount Lofty Ranges, Clare Valley
    Black cherry, menthol, white pepper and floral elements. Approachable on the palate even though there is impressive structure. Very enjoyable wine that speaks of it’s place and maker. 91/100