U.S.A


Dinner at Sugaroom in Sydney with 4 other wine lovers -

Primo Estate Joseph Sparkling Shiraz (06 disg) :
Good mousse at first that drops away pretty quickly. Nice layered complexity to the nose - plums, cherry, earth and gamey notes. The palate has an intriguing texture and mouth-feel to it. Very good length and depth/complexity of flavour with just a lick of sweetness on the mid-palate. Shows complex character, while retaining some freshness on the palate that should allow it to improve with age.
91/100

Primo Estate Joseph Sparkling Shiraz (97 disg) :
Quite obviously of the same bloodline as the 06 disgorgement, just with some added age. Leather, earth, five spice and smoke on the nose. The palate shows more savoury spice and is drier in comparison to the 06. The real standout feature of the palate is the superb depth of flavour and excellent balance leading into an excellent length finish.

Sparkling red is generally not my thing, but these two bottles certainly were.
92/100

2003 Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay :
Very delicate nose of lemon, light oats and a streak of minerality. Palate is elegant with great balance and focus through a tight core of acid. Young and tightly wound at the moment, but it is obviously extremely classy and it has so much potential that I would love to see it in 5 years time when it could well be excellent.
90/100

1976 Rosemount Estate Cabernet Sauvignon :
Light aromas of smoke, dust, sweet chocolate and a hint of a floral character. Fairly lightly bodied as well with decent length and quite a smoky aftertaste. Held up well over the evening and was drinkable and better than I think may have been expected from a wine that was probably not intended to be saved for 30+ years!
85/100

1981 Leoville Las Cases :
Quite an expressive nose of tobacco, lilac, cassis, cedar and earth. The palate at first lacks intensity, although the the components are all nicely balanced and integrated. Seemed to take on some extra palate weight when given some time to breath and was better when paired with food.
88/100

1994 Ridge Monte Bello :
12.7% alcohol. Primary nose of violet, blackcurrant, cedar and chocolate oak, autumn leaves and pencil shavings. The palate is primary as well with plenty of deeply seated fruit to stand up to the oak and fine tannin structure. Really good length. I think the back label mentioned keeping it 5-15 years to improve, based on this bottle I’d be extending that an extra 8-10 years.
91/100

2003 Rockford Basket Press Shiraz :
A nose that is jam packed with sweet, ripe fruit. Blackcurrant, anise/liquorice, some background vanilla oak and blueberry muffins was an aroma descriptor that I particularly liked. More intense, sweet fruit on the palate that I think will appeal to lovers of the richly fruited Barossa style. Nice length, but just a bit too ripe for my personal liking.
88/100

1981 Chateau Coutet : (375ml)
Light botrytis, lots of apricot and some burnt sugar. The nose is better than the palate, which has an initial burst of flavour followed by watered down flavour intensity on the mid-palate and a startlingly short finish. I finished my glass quickly, but others noted that the nose fell over pretty soon after pouring.
81/100

2004 Kracher Eiswein : (375ml)
The nose is perfumed and elegant rather than dense, with some floral notes, slate and lemon and orange zest. The palate is quite pure with good balance through enough refreshing acidity as a counterweight to the medium sweetness. Fairly simple, but enjoyable to drink all the same. Probably drinking well now while it is still fresh.
88/100

All wines were tasted blind at dinner with some friends from the Winestar Forum with the exception of my bottles which were the Bindi, Sorrenberg and the Elk Cove.

Bollinger R.D 1988 - (Champagne, France): Disgorged May 2000. Tarnished gold in colour. Toast, walnut, yeasty dough, pears and slightly oxidative nose. Palate is intense but still retains balance and structure with a crisp finish. My favourite wine on the night. 93/100

Grosset Polish Hill Riesling 2005 - (Clare Valley, South Australia): What a disappointment, this is meant to be one of Australia’s very best (and expensive) Rieslings - all lemon and lime and a watery palate with no backbone, no structure, no length, no intensity. A bit of sweetness on the finish.

Wine critics have been generally extremely positive about this wine, but I have seen reports from others that their bottle was similarly poor. 85/100

Bindi Composition Chardonnay 2004 - (Macedon Ranges, Victoria): The antithesis of what I don’t like about Australian chardonnay. No buttery, over-oaked characters here. Fairly tight nose, some cinnamon and grapefruit. Some flinty minerality, good underlying oak and a bit of acid at this stage. Length is good. I liked it. 89/100

Felton Road Pinot Noir 2003 - (Central Otago, New Zealand): Cherries, tomatoes, some stalks, touch of funk initially that blew off. Thought there was some acid poking out but not nearly as much as some others at the table found. Fell away at the back of the palate. 87/100

Henschke Cyril Henschke Cabernet Sauvignon 1994 - (Eden Valley, South Australia): Savoury nose with elements of earth and blackcurrant at the forefront - lovely tannin structure and great texture/mouthfeel. My second favourite wine on the night. 93/100

Henschke Mount Edelstone Shiraz 1994 - (Eden Valley, South Australia): Powerful nose with spice, pepper, some background oak and a hint of mint and menthol. Once again good structure and length. 90/100

Sorrenberg Gamay 2001 - (Beechworth, Victoria): Spice, earth, smoked smallgoods, some floral notes and a touch of butterscotch(?). Fleshy palate with some sweetness. Something different and definitely needs to be had with food. 88/100

Elk Cove Willamette Valley Pinot Noir 2000 - (Oregon, USA): I think probably the first US Pinot I’ve tried and it’s not too bad! Earthy, forest floor, dirty and funky nose with some stalks in the background. Balanced and silky on the palate. Just lacking in some wow factor. A bit of a polarising style as well, with some liking it and some hating the dirt and funk. 89/100

Lindemans St George Cabernet Sauvignon 1991 - (Coonawarra, South Australia): Original release rather than the recent museum release bottling. Pencil shavings, cedar, cassis. Lovely complexity on the palate, great length. Very Bordeaux like. Super stuff. 92/100

Katnook Estate Prodigy Shiraz 1997 - (Coonawarra, South Australia): Tomato leaf, fair amount of vanilla oak. Palate is pretty good but the oak is still too prominent. 89/100

Rockford Grenache 1996 - (Barossa Valley, South Australia): Very ashy on the nose. Components of the palate are well integrated. I don’t know if this was meant to go 10 years but it was holding up fine. Decent enough but probably not a bad move to move the fruit into their GSM blend (Moppa Springs). 87/100

Rosemount Hunter Valley Trockenbeerenauslese Riesling 1982 - (Hunter Valley, New South Wales): A rarity! The story is that during the Fosters/Southcorp merger, inventory of warehouses were being done and 16 cases were found in a corner and nobody knew what they were. It turned out to be lost museum stock of this wine.

Colour was a deep orange brown, almost looked like a fortified wine. Nose was obvious aged Riesling with a bit of botrytis for good measure. Acid was there on the palate and holding the palate together. Very sweet but very nice. Fell apart after about half an hour in the glass, but was wonderful for the time it was alive. 92/100

The North American class was an interesting one – it is obviously a region with some unexplored and unacknowledged potential.

I heard some rather complimentary things being said about these classes from fellow attendees, and while there were some very good, bordering on excellent wines being shown, there were an equal number of wines that were displaying serious winemaking and viticulture faults, which took some of the gloss off the otherwise impressive showing.

Still, it is a region that is worth watching, and as the good vineyard sites are determined and as the winemakers gain additional experience, we are sure to see some exciting wines. Hopefully they will be back next year with their 2005 offerings.

Current Vintage (2004) Dry

Atwater Estate “Dry” - 91/100
Heron Hill “Ingle Vineyard Johannisberg” - 90/100
Dr Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars ”Dry” - 88/100
Lamoreaux Landing “Reserve” - 87/100
Vincor “Genesis” - 87/100
Sheldrake Point “Dry” - 87/100
Waters Crest Winery - 86/100
Belhurst “Traditions Dry” - 86/100
Keuka Spring Vineyard - 84/100
Anthony Road “Dry” - 82/100
Nk’Mip - 81/100
Widmer’s “Brickstone Dry” - 76/100

Current Vintage (2004) Semi-Dry

Dr Konstantin Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars “Johannisberg Semi-Dry” - 91/100
Chateau Ste Michelle “Eroica” - 89/100
Keuka Spring “Reserve” - 88/100
McGregor Vineyard “Semi-Dry” - 87/100
Fox Run Dry - 87/100
Hawthorne Mountain Vineyards - 86/100
Hillside Estate - 85/100
Chateau Ste Michelle “Cold Creek” - 85/100
Fox Run - 82/100
Lamoreaux Landing “Semi-Dry” - 82/100
Anthony Road “Semi-Dry” - 81/100

Current Vintage (2004) Sweet

Sheldrake Point “Ice Wine” - 92/100
Heron Hill “Late Harvest” - 90/100
Heron Hill “Ingle Vineyard Icewine” - 89/100
McGregor Vineyard - 87/100
Belhurst Traditions “Semi-Dry” - 86/100
Widmer’s Brickstone “Semi-Dry” - 78/100

15 classes of Riesling featuring 338 entries from Australia, New Zealand, Germany and North America? $15 entry and you get to pour your own samples and you get to take home whatever half bottles that are left over at the end? All I have to do is drive 4 hours to Canberra? I’m there.

So it was on the 22nd of October this year, I found myself in Canberra tasting through a rather daunting list of Riesling. My focus was on tasting briefly a wide selection of Riesling rather than detailed analysis of a limited sample. Thus, only a brief summary of each class followed by points from the standout wines.

The official awards from the judges follow;

Best Museum Class - Peter Lehmann “Reserve” 2001
Best Open Class - Palandri Wines 2004
Best Current Vintage - Madfish 2005
Best Riesling for the Canberra District - Mundoonen “Canberra” 2002
Best Riesling from New Zealand - Villa Maria “Reserve Noble” 2003
Best European Riesling - Weingut Schales “Eiswein” 2004
Best North American Riesling - Sheldrake Point “Ice Wine” 2004

The Best Riesling - Madfish 2005

My awards in the same categories would have been;

Best Museum Class - Jacob’s Creek “Steingarten” 2002
Best Open Class - Villa Maria “Reserve Noble” 2003
Best Current Vintage - Seppelt “Drumborg” 2005
Best Riesling for the Canberra District - Helm “Classic Dry” 2005
Best Riesling from New Zealand - Villa Maria “Reserve Noble” 2003
Best European Riesling - Weingut Schales “Eiswein” 2004
Best North American Riesling - Sheldrake Point “Ice Wine” 2004

The Best Riesling - Jacob’s Creek “Steingarten” 2002

I’ll post my notes and scores on each class over the next few days …