King Valley


An excellent dinner hosted by friends Gavin and Gen. I’ve included the menu items interspersed throughout the notes. I won’t post too detailed impressions on the food, but in general they were good matches, especially the Salmon with the Champagne and the smoked Duck with the Pinot/Burgundy.

Smoked Salmon, mayonnaise and avocado

Franck Bonville Grand Cru BdB “Brut Selection” N.V - (Avize, Champagne):
Fine bead, nose of citrus, spice, chalk, sea spray, vanilla bean. Medium bodied palate shows a noticeable level of acid but it is restrained enough to refresh and provide a crisp mouth-feel rather than upset the balance. Length is good. A nice wine. 88/100

Zind-Humbrecht Riesling 2003 - (Turckheim, Alsace):
On the nose, apricot, smoke, peaches, some alcohol and phenolic characters sticking out. While the palate had an interesting texture to it, it also felt really flat and lacking in acid and the richness that I’ve heard ZH is known for. Probably a product of the vintage as well as this being one of the low level ZH Rieslings (still not cheap in Australia of course). A wine that provided a decent level of hard to pick options (with Gavin saying “Well it’s definately not Zind Humbrecht), but not a whole lot else. 81/100

Oremus Furmint 1998 - (Mandolas, Tokaji, Hungary):
Speaking of hard to pick options … a dry wine from the Tokaji region best known for their sweet wines. The nose shows aromas of funk, spice, oxidative characters and ripe bananas. The structure of the palate is sound - although it is dry and oxidative again. The length is actually quite good. An interesting experience. 87/100

Château Laffitte-Ceston “Sec” 2002 - (Pacherenc du Vic Bilh, Southwest France):
Made from Petit-Manseng grapes. Aromas of passionfruit, pineapple, kiwi and floral overtones. The palate has prominent acid and also seems a touch alcoholic or spirity. Again, interesting and something I was glad to get the chance to try. 86/100

Black Pudding in Pastry
Smoked duck and raspberry sauce

Michel Gros “Clos des Reas” 1er Cru Monopole 1998 - (Vosne-Romanee, Burgundy):
Stalks and boot polish initially which did blow off to reveal a perfumed, slightly floral nose as well as primary notes of raspberry and strawberry. Took on some truffle and undergrowth notes as it breathed in the glass. Palate is delicate and elegant and fine tannins are present and providing structure. Length is excellent with the finish persisting for quite some time. My Wine Of The Night. 92/100

Salad with vegetables and cheese
Lamb with mushroom sauce, carrot and potato

Chateau Branaire 1989 - (St. Julien, Bordeaux):
Just the slightest fading around the rim, but a deep youthful crimson core. The nose was showing cedar, cassis, pencil shavings, a touch of florality and dusty notes. Palate has good structure and balance. A fine wine. 90/100

John Duval “Plexus” 2003 Shiraz Grenache Mataro - (Barossa Valley, South Australia):
The first vintage from this new label by ex Penfolds (and Grange) winemaker John Duval. The nose stands out against the previous wines. Juicy, upfront notes of blackberry, blueberry, pepper and spices, liquorice and well integrated French oak. Palate is quite well balanced and I didn’t think it was showing its 14.5% alcohol. Soft tannins and a nice long finish. 90/100

Seppelt “Great Western” Shiraz 1997 - (Grampians, Victoria):
Nose closed up about 5 minutes after I opened it. Was given some time to breath in the bottle and a decanter. Nose remained quite closed but showed a slight floral lift along with pepper, cherry and some very restrained oak. The medium intensity palate shows sweet fruit and good length. Still very youthful and tightly coiled. Is it going anywhere good? Too hard for me to call. 87/100

Cheese Plate
Fig with prosciutto
Bread and butter pudding

Brown Brothers “Patricia” Noble Riesling 2002 - (King Valley, Victoria):
Current release of this wine. Deep amber colour belies its youth. Pears dominate the nose that also shows apricot, citrus peel, honeycomb and marmalade. The palate is very sweet and ripe, but I thought the acid flowed through the length of the palate and was enough to avoid being cloying to my tastes. It finishes crisp and long. The back label says that it can be cellared for 4-6 years and while it may be possible, I think it is drinking so well now that it would be a waste of time to wait. Great value for money at around $20AUD for a half bottle. 92/100

A really good night - good company, food and wines. There were two votes for the Burgundy as the best wine of the night and two votes for the Brown Brother Patricia. I thought they were both excellent but would (and did) go for the Burgundy.

Pizzini Wines (King Valley) - A small family producer with a focus on Italian varieties that are infrequently seen in Australian wines. They have been growing grapes since the late 1970’s and started making wine under the Pizzini label in the mid 90’s. I didn’t get a chance to try the red wines from the maker, but hopefully will in the near future.

Riesling 2005 - Citrus and stone-fruit on the nose. Palate is soft rather than sharp although there is some acid on the crisp finish. This is a Riesling for medium-term enjoyment. 88/100

Sauvignon Blanc 2005 - Grapefruit, mixed herbs and passionfruit. Palate is lively and is balanced across the entire length. One of the better Sauvignon Blanc based wines tried at this event. 88/100

Rosetto 2005 - Made from Sangiovese grapes. A dry style Rosé with only the barest hint of any sweetness. Has a savoury and spicy palate. 87/100

Arneis 2005 - Delicate and restrained with some florality on the nose. It is alright for an easy to drink dry white wine. 86/100

Chardonnay 2004 - Fresh nose with just a small amount of oak evident. I have nothing much to say about this - no faults but nothing exceptional. 86/100

Verdelho 2005 - Nose is like a fresh leafy salad as well as ripe tropical fruit. It really has a bit too much sweetness on the palate. 85/100