Appellation Australia

A wonderful dinner on Saturday night at Tetsuya’s in Sydney with my family. Food, service and atmosphere were impossible to fault even though my expectations were sky high after such a wonderful experience on my first/last visit last year.

The menu was only changed very slightly from my last visit in May last year, but when the dishes are this good, that is perfectly fine by me.

Sweet Corn Soup with Basil Ice Cream

then

Pacific oysters with Rice Vinegar

Tartare of Tuna on Sushi Rice with Avocado

Tuna Marinated in Soy and Mirin

Soft Smoked Ocean Trout with Asparagus

Marinated NZ Scampi with Chicken Parfait and Walnut

with

Taittinger Champagne Brut Blanc de Blancs Comtes de Champagne 1998

Pale straw-yellow in colour with a very fine bead and only a very small amount of mousse. Had a lightly scented nose of toast, lemon, vanilla and slate. There is a fresh core of focused, balanced acidity to the palate and the length is excellent with lingering flavour, but it is perhaps just lacking the level of clarity and layers of flavour that the stunning 1996 had in order to take the step from excellent to exceptional. Enjoy over the next 8-10 years.

92/100

Confit of Petuna Tasmanian Ocean Trout with Konbu, Daikon and Fennel and Seasonal Green Salad

Ravioli of Queensland Spanner Crab with Tomato and Basil Vinaigrette

with

Domaine Leflaive Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Clavoillon 1999

Light yellow colour. It took a little while for the nose to open up on this, but when it did it provided the kind of interesting and newly revealed aromas with each sniff that I would have been happy to sit and smell it over an entire night.

Aromas of extra virgin olive oil, sea salt, lemon rind, straw, hints of star anise and very light toast and smoke. Delicate and pure on the palate initially, it built a small amount of richness and weight in the glass across the excellent length, but stayed in balance and maintained its purity of flavour. This proved to be a very good match for the food, complimenting each other well rather than skewing the focus one way.

I would suggest that it will start to enter a mature drinking phase around 2010 and continue improving for another 5 years afterward.

92/100

Twice Cooked De-Boned Spatchcock with Braised Daikon and Bread Sauce

Grilled Wagyu Beef with Asian Mushrooms and Lime Jus

with

Château Rayas Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reservee 1979

I was concerned about how this would show, as it was bought at auction with unknown provenance (but with excellent fill level) and also wasn’t sure if it would complement the food. It was perhaps not the right occasion to take the risk, but it has been said that fortune can favour the brave!

Opened with a brilliantly layered, complex nose from the very start, with burnt butter, black cherry, smoked meat, damp soil, floral notes, tea and mixed spices. The elegant palate has lovely texture, with subtle spice and delicate sweet fruit. Only a touch not long enough to reach toward perfection, but a brilliant wine regardless. Almost more in the mould of Burgundy on the palate, it was perfect for the food to my tastes.

Fully mature and while it didn’t show any sign of decline over the hour and a half it was enjoyed, I would certainly open it now or in the near future if you are holding onto any bottles.

96/100

Pineapple and Yoghurt Sorbet

Strawberry Shortcake

Vanilla Bean Ice Cream with White Beans and Dates

Floating Island with Praline and Vanilla Bean Anglaise

with

Inniskillin Vidal Icewine 1996

A deep amber colour was briefly worrying, but upon my first sniff I could tell that there was no reason for concern. Soft toffee was the initial aroma and this was followed by marmalade, cherry, vanilla, peach and a espresso note in the background. Refreshing and clean rather than cloying on the palate, with great focus to the integrated acid counterbalancing the medium level of sweetness. Has impressive length and it was genuinely delicious to drink.

93/100

Petit Four with Coffee

I can’t wait to go back!

A group of food and wine lovers from blogs and from the wider community have gathered together again this year to offer a Menu for Hope. This year they are raising money for the United Nations World Food Programme. For every $10 (USD) donated before the 22nd of December, you receive one ticket in a raffle to be drawn early next year. There are some fantastic prizes that have been donated in the Asia Pacific region, including dining vouchers at some exceptional restaurants, food hampers, signed books and more.

For more information on how to donate toward this very worthy cause and for specifics on prizes available in Australia and Asia, visit Grab Your Fork.

I don’t think I will ever meet as generous a group of people as those that I have met through my brief love of wine. This was the third and last of these dinners (first, second) for 2006 where each person brings something special to the best of their ability. Some amazing wines were brought to Claude’s restaurant in Woollahra and it was a wonderful night among friends.

Rillettes of hare and sterling caviar

Smoked salmon consommé

with:

1992 Moet et Chandon Cuvee Dom Perignon Rose

Was pale pink salmon in colour with a nose that gives off complex aromas of mushroom, earth, game and fresh strawberry and cherry. Had an elegant, delicate palate with a touch of fruit sweetness broadening out the mouthfeel and leading into a lingering finish. This was a most promising start to proceedings.

92/100

1980 Krug Clos du Mesnil Brut Blanc de Blancs

A brilliant sun gold in colour. Deep and rich notes of apricot, floral scents, mango, marzipan and a touch of almond draw you into the aged yet still fresh nose. If the nose somehow did not do it, then the very first taste leaves no doubt that this is something special. The palate exhibits flawless balance, striking purity and depth of flavour. Beautiful focus and carry into a wondrously long, clean, breathtaking finish. A truly exceptional, wonderful experience that has left an indelible impression on me.

98/100

Chicken galantine with foie gras

with:

1967 Chateau d’Yquem

A deep caramel colour. A bursting nose that really grabs hold of you with its intensity and layers of aroma - caramel, molasses, marmalade, cedar, marzipan, acetone and roasted nuts. The power and depth of the unctuous palate is truly astounding, with waves and waves of complex flavours. Nigh on perfect balance with a clean, lingering finish that left me looking forward to each and every sip. Superb.

97/100

1975 Chateau d’Yquem

Glowing amber-gold colour. Initially the nose is subdued and then suddenly it begins to unfold and reveal the most captivating, amazing aromas of apple, pear, musky perfume, peach, apricot, honey, pineapple, citrus peel and rose petals - it seemed as though every with every sniff another entrancing layer of aroma was revealed. I take a sip and I’m glad that I’m sitting down as I am almost overwhelmed by its brilliance. The palate is scintillating - for a wine to display such power and elegance simultaneously seems almost impossible. Utterly flawless balance. Twinkles across the palate into an endless finish.

Completely memorising and moving. Three weeks after tasting it, I am still rendered speechless and almost breathless every time I think about it. Perfect.

100/100

Grilled marron

with:

1988 Domaine Ramonet Batard-Montrachet

A slightly lighter colour than the 1998. Opens with a nose of intense sesame prawn toast and rubber. With time, the rubber dissipated somewhat although the sesame remained along with gunflint, smoke and grapefruit. A toasty palate with good structure initially thanks to a strong core of acid that carries a bit too strongly into the slightly short finish.

88/100

1998 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet

The nose is cheesy and reminiscent of lightly buttered toast, there were also some pear, lemon and apple undertones coming through. Very delicately flavoured on the palate with the high acid providing backbone. Needs to be given some time to develop the depth that is lacking at the moment.

90/100

2002 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Corton-Charlemagne

A delightfully restrained but layered nose of lemon, sea spray, oyster shells, grapefruit and nougat. Outstanding concentration of flavour, with the power focused into a tightly coiled, acid driven, balanced line across the palate and into an excellent length finish. I loved it and I think it is sure to get better with time.

93/100

Aylesbury duck with sauce from the press

with:

1985 Domain Georges Mugneret Nuits-St.-Georges Les Chaignots

Corked.

NR/100

1985 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti La Tache

A deeply perfumed, musky aroma of violets and roses that became even more pronounced while being left to sit in the glass, as well as fallen leaves (that enjoyable scent of autumn decay), earth, mushroom and subtle spice. The palate is long and delicate, lacking only enough fruit to entirely balance the acid profile.

92/100

1988 Domaine Jean Grivot Richebourg

Strong aromas of freshly ground coffee beans with some rhubarb, delicate spices and underlying sweet red fruits - after 20 minutes some complex earth and smoked meat aromas emerge. A long, balanced palate with a lovely, defining texture to it. There is tannin present, contributing to the structure but not getting in the way of balance or the focus across the line of the wine. Very good, although near to its peak and lacking the complexity to be brilliant.

92/100

Spring lamb, asparagus with madeira jus

with:

1975 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild

Dominant cedar on the nose with some background aromas of coffee, blackberry and cinnamon. Well balanced on the softly elegant palate, including the tannins which serve to enhance the structure and mouthfeel. Lacks complexity and depth, but enjoyable to drink none the less.

91/100

1975 Domaine Cheval Blanc

The nose is comprised of black cherry kirsch, cedar, earth and olive tapenade. The palate is austere, dominated by oak and tannins and there is no depth of fruit or flavour. This bottle has crossed its zenith and was headed downward.

86/100

1981 Chateau Margaux

A swirling, perfumed, floral nose of cedar, tobacco, cherry, plums and raspberry. The medium-bodied palate is highly skilled in the art of seduction and all the components seem well integrated and balanced. With good length and nice depth, this is extremely enjoyable drinking at the peak of this wines life.

There may be some hope for me in my search for great wines from 1981 yet!

93/100

1982 Chateau Cos d’Estournel

Nose of dense, wet earth as well as spice, tobacco and undertones of complex dried meats. An intense and youthful palate with fine tannins standing out currently. The length of the palate is excellent as well as having impressive structural quality. The slightly aggressive palate means that this isn’t drinking as well now as the Margaux right now but its superior structure will allow it to develop layers of complexity and to be better with 5-8 years of additional age, if this bottle is anything to go by.

92/100

1985 Chateau Leoville Las-Cases

Graphite and cedar lead the nose but some rather green capsicum and stalky characters are hard to get past. The palate is soft and simple, lacking depth and interest. Prominent acid on the back palate leaves the finish short and ultimately unsatisfying. Much better bottles have been had by others attending the dinner in the past.

86/100

Fillet of grass-fed Wagyu beef with green vegetables

with:

1987 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline

Intense smoky meat on the nose along with freshly brewed coffee and pepper. On the palate the fruit has faded and it is drying out . This bottle was looking quite tired and certainly tasting as though it had seen much better days.

84/100

1994 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline

Incredible, intense floral and violet aromatics are the centrepiece of a brilliant, layered nose that also shows five spice, white pepper, cherry and bacon fat. Completely seductive and elegant on the palate - lush and velvet-textured with incredible depth and complexity of flavour, while maintaining excellent structure, balance and stunning length. Brilliant, glorious and certainly my favourite red wine tonight.

96/100

1992 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon

Some confronting aromas of dried and smoked meat, leather, barnyard, mushrooms and bramble. Savoury and softly bodied with alright balance and length, but seems to lack depth and much of interest on the palate. I didn’t find the bretty aromas on the nose especially offensive, but if such things are not to your liking then I don’t think this would be the wine for you.

88/100

Cheese

Avocado blancmange with coconut

Vanilla & strawberry soufflé

with:

1977 Taylors Vintage Port

Corked.

NR/100

It has been a while since I’ve had a look through the always interesting records of searches used to find this site. Here are some that I have spotted over the last month or so.

cost of a nose reduction australia
poetry about how people would like to be treated
what if australia was french
how much is the fine for running red light in South Australia
little bit of toast 1980s hit
cullen furry

A 375ml bottle opened for my birthday recently. Disgorged in July/August 2004.
Displays a very fine bead with a small but persistent mousse. The nose is fresh and at the same time complex - mushroom, lemon zest, pear and peach, fresh wholemeal bread and marzipan. The palate has a lively, refreshing and creamy mouthfeel with a refined weight that builds and builds with time in the glass. Depth, balance, structure and length of the palate are all exceptional. I think Krug NV would make my “stranded on a desert island wine list” without too much trouble at all.

95/100

There has been some news recently about two $2AUD ($1.50USD) cleanskin wines being offered by Dan Murphy’s, who are owned by a major supermarket chain here in Australia.

I decided to see what a $2 wine tastes like and to put it into a blind test against another wine. My girlfriend poured the $2 wine and a $15 wine that I knew the identity of but hadn’t tasted before, in another room and brought me the glasses.

The $15 wine was purchased last year and is a 2001 Cabernet Merlot from Margaret River, the $2 wine was purchased this week from Dan Murphy’s and is a 2006 Cabernet Merlot South East Australian blend with code WE3. Despite the difference in age, I still feel it is a valid comparison of two wines that you can walk into a store and buy at similar periods of time at the different price points.

Both wines bottled under screwcap and both tasted from Riedel ‘O’ Series Cabernet/Merlot glasses. The $15 wine is 14.5% alcohol and the $2 wine is 13.5%.

Wine A

This really smells like Cabernet - tobacco, briar, blackcurrant, black olives, liquorice and well integrated dusty and cedary French oak. In a totally different flavour spectrum to wine B, much more savoury black fruits showing through. A balanced palate that has good texture, firm tannins and very good length. I think this is probably the $15 wine and for my taste it is streets ahead of the cleanskin with much greater depth and interest.

90/100

Wine B

A bright, fresh fruit driven nose of with dominant apricots as well as cherry and plum. The palate is driven almost entirely by juicy fruit sweetness, it is of medium length and it offers no depth of flavour, it is very linear right across the palate. Tastes like a “Generic Medium Bodied Red Wine”, but it is without major faults and pretty easy to drink if you don’t want to think about it. I am sure that this is the cleanskin and I’ve had worse wines that have cost $100, let alone $2.

85/100

Summary: My girlfriend unveiled the bottles and Wine A was the $15 wine and Wine B was the $2. This was as I expected, but the $2 wine put up a decent enough fight and I’m certain that some people would prefer it to Wine A. There are some interesting times ahead if this continues, there will be a lot of pressure on the other sub $10 labels if wines of this fault-free quality are available in the demanded quantities for casual drinkers for an extended period of time.

I have the $2 Chardonnay as well and I’ll be doing another blind taste test of that sometime soon.

Following on from the previous post about interesting search terms, I’ve been seeing some other strange/interesting ones appear lately.Some selected odd ones over the past month or so;

anthony bourdain gay? - Thanks to Ed saying that this was the most interesting search term that he received in a comment on the previous post, now I’m getting them!

CAM FRUIT. COM - Looking at the first result for that search, I’m again fairly sure that they weren’t looking for a wine review site.

WHAT POISON DO - This one has me slightly concerned but I hope they found some good advice eventually.

ontario cabbage king - Sadly, whoever they were looking for isn’t even the King of cabbage in all of Canada, just Ontario.

australia 431 connection type - No idea really - maybe it’s a spare part for one of those “all six wheeler ducks”?

signs that you have conceived - Not really my area of expertise at all, but I think that there are tests you can get for that sort of thing that are surely slightly more accurate than random web searching.

At least not to the best of my knowledge it isn’t, otherwise most of the wine lovers that I associate with would be in jail right about now.

Yet, last week I received the first threat of legal action against my site (after being around for 18 months now). I figure that it is probably a compliment as I am finally important enough for people to get angry over something I have written.

Ric from TorbWine has written an excellent article on the topic here along with the contents of first few emails sent between me and the winery, thanks to him for taking up the issue in the hope that those of us giving our genuine opinions will not face similar threats in the future. Welcome to anyone visiting my site after reading his article.

As part of my large write-up on the Victorian Winemaker Exhibition 2006, I reviewed a wine here that I believed to among the faultiest wines I had ever tasted. It smelt like burnt rubber, onions and the stable in a poorly maintained barnyard. I awarded the wine 50 points, which is the lowest possible score for the 100 point system. I also indicated in the review that I hoped that these were off bottles rather than representative, but that I can only rate what is in the glass on the day.

Despite what Graeme Miller from the winery of the same name may think, publishing a bad review on a wine is not against the law. All I am putting forward with each tasting note is my personal opinion, and as long as I do not make false allegations (ie this wine will poison you or similar) I am entitled to tell people what I think. In this particular case, I was not the only person who thought that the wine was faulty, a number of people I spoke to who work in the industry and have good palates were at the same event tried the wine, with one describing it as “Summer Nat burnout ring, mercaptan, DMS, DMDS it had the works”.

After I replied to the initial legal threat, indicating that I would not remove the review, I received another email telling me that critics enjoyed the wine, I guess with the implication that my judgement was incorrect. Wineries are going to have to get used to a big difference between old media (magazines, newspapers, books etc) and new media (websites, blogs, podcasts). Old world media is restricted in what they have the space and desire to publish, nobody wants to open the paper and read about three bad wines - so in general you will only see very positive reviews in these formats. With the internet, all wines can be reviewed - good, bad and indifferent; this gives some power to the consumer to look at various opinions, good and bad, and to make informed decisions.

The winery alleges that my review is incorrect and that as I am high on the Google results for their winery, I am doing damage to their business. The other good thing about the internet and wine reviews is that reviews will balance themselves out - if this was truly a good wine, there would be others commenting around wine forums and blogs to say that it was so. If the wine is good Graeme Miller Wines could have offered to let me retry the wines, or offered other wine reviewers the chance to try them, but instead they decided to try to bully me into removing my opinion.

In conclusion, I was speaking to some wineries during Wine Australia and they were divided, some said that publishing the bad review was the right thing to do, and some said that it wasn’t and that reviewers have a responsibility to ensure that they do not damage small businesses with poor feedback (those with power protecting those without, so to speak). What do you think wine reviewers should do? Get stuck into wine that we think is poor (preferably after trying more than one sample, but indicating that it was only one sample if that is the case) or keep quiet about poor wines and just talk about our positive experiences with wine? I know that making wine is not easy, and that it requires passion and dedication - so I do not especially want to cause hurt to any one, but on the other hand I do want to make sure that the readers of this site and those consumers that are looking for information on wines have as much information available to them as possible.

Another new Australian wine blog, this time started by the renowned taster David Lole from Canberra. He is just getting started, but there are a number of tasting notes posted already at http://www.davidlole.com.

I think I have most of the active Australian Wine Blogs (even though Gary from Winorama hates it being called a blog ) linked on the right hand side, but please let me know if I am missing anyone out.

It is interesting to look through the server logs and see what keywords are bringing people to my site (perhaps your idea of interesting is very different to my own, but that is alright).

Admittedly, search engines have gotten much better over the past few years and the majority of searches that lead here look about right, but the descriptions in tasting notes are liable to generate some unexpected or unusual results coming here (despite the summary of the content under the search result usually not coming close to matching the query details).

Some for this month so far;

all six wheeler duck - I’m not at all sure what that means or why someone would be searching for it.

having peaches and cream and liking it - I can 99.9% guarantee that they weren’t happy to find out that this is a wine review site.

Australian carrot salad texture - Why would it be any different from the texture of a carrot salad elsewhere in the world?

australian wine brand starts with “L” - I’m sorry, search engines are getting better - but I think you will have to try to be more specific. I hope the first result on my site “Leeuwin Estate” was what they were looking for.

australian funky straws - “No shopkeeper, you don’t understand, they must be australian.”

how did the parsnip get to Australia - I guess it is a legitimate question, but the search summary of “House-Made Black Pudding with Foie Gras, Seared Scallops and Parsnip Puree” wasn’t a sign that they were heading to the wrong place?

matching furnitures for butterscotch hardwood floors - If nothing else I hope they found something nice to drink while selecting furniture.