December 2006
Monthly Archive
Cattier Brut Premier Cru Chigny-les-Roses NV
Aggressive, swirling bead. Fresh, crisp green apples, lemon sherbet and tropical fruit pervade the nose. The palate is lightly flavoured and driven by crisp acidity. Pleasant and decent value for money in context at $36AUD.
87/100
Seppelt Salinger 1994
Only the faintest of bead that was gone with 5 minutes in the glass. The nose is honeyed with lemon and roast almond. A nice creaminess to the palate, with just enough acid left to carry the honeyed flavour through into the finish. Still providing enjoyment despite its simplicity.
88/100
Krug Grande Cuvee - New Label (disg. M421 - March/April 2004)
Very smoky oak characters on the nose as well as nuts and some brioche. The palate has a fairly soft intensity of flavour with good acidity and a medium length finish. Badly lacking dimension and depth which could be forgiven with the previous two wines, but not this one. I came back to it a couple of times in the hours since it was opened and it didn’t seem to get much better.
My first disappointment with Krug MV, tastes like the feeling of being betrayed by your best friend. That said, it was still reasonably good and it was still Krug - but I don’t think that anyone before in the history of wine has ever answered the question “did you want the Salinger or the Krug?” with “the Salinger” ! Must have been something wrong with this bottle, as I had a brilliant bottle that I wrote about here.
89/100
Jean Vesselle “Oeil de Perdrix” rose NV
Orange hued salmon colour. Nose is funky, earthy and peppery. An austere and fairly boring/short/simple palate with some bitterness on the back palate. I couldn’t find a whole lot to enjoy about this, as much as I tried.
83/100
Taittinger “Comte de Champagne” Blanc de Blancs 1996
Pale yellow in colour with a light green tinge to it. A very fine bead. The nose is intense but refined with bright, fresh citrus and floral notes as well as layers of honey, vanilla bean and brioche. The palate is brilliant in every way - supremely classy, elegant and layered. Faultless balance with the acid so tightly woven into the superb structure of the wine that it drives the scintillating focus across the palate without standing apart from the other components. Incredible depth of rich, pure, textured flavour and length that left an impression on my palate for minutes afterward and on my mind for a considerable time longer.
97/100
Seppelt Drumborg Riesling 2006
Lime and lovely floral aromatics emanate from the nose. Steely and structured, but also quite approachable now without the taut austerity and acid that I’ve come to associate with young Drumborg Riesling over the last few vintages. Both the length and focus of the palate are faultless. A superb wine that I think will really turn some heads in 5-6 years time.
92/100
Bass Phillip Premium 1997
A deep but dull red in colour. Rhubarb, sour cherry, wet soil and dark floral scents on the nose. The palate has good length with tightly packed flavour and weight. Yet it is weight without finesse and there is no complexity or texture to the mouth-feel. I wonder if it will develop some complexity with more time. It is still good, but probably not one for the purists.
90/100
Bindi Original Vineyard Pinot 2002
An intense nose - rhubarb, sweet red cherry, stalk, confected raspberry and some chocolate notes. Very forward compared to the Bass Phillip, especially on the nose. A bit more texture to the mouth-feel, although the overall structure and length isn’t as good as the Bass Phillip. Two very different styles, and I quite enjoyed both of them for what they were (not what they may be trying to be).
90/100
Louis Latour Pernand-Vergelesses “Ile-des-Vergelesses” 1997
Faulty. Brown tinged colour. A stewed, chlorine driven nose. Palate is flat and short.
NR/100
Henschke Mount Edelstone 1995
Dark chocolate, tobacco, blackcurrant and a dab of American oak. The palate has intense but focused and plush, sweet fruited flavour with some youthful tannins present along its length. Not on its way downhill quickly yet, but I think probably at its peak and most enjoyable at the moment as the fruit depth and structure doesn’t seem to be there for longer term aging.
90/100
Domaine Font de Michelle Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2001
Savoury nose of smoked ham, cherry and gravel. The palate is soft, well rounded and very easy to drink Lacks complexity and backbone, and I don’t think it is going to improve a great deal but it is still quite enjoyable now.
88/100
J.J. Prum Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1993
Orange peel, floral aromas, peaches and apricot on the nose with just a whiff of petrol. There is harmony on the palate between the acid and soft sweetness with the almost spritzy acidity leading into a clean, good length finish. The real feature of the palate is the purity rather than any complexity. Not astounding, but I’d be very happy to drink this kind of wine more frequently than I do now.
88/100
A few quick notes from a recent casual dinner with friends;
1979 Bollinger Grande Année Champagne
A slow, fine bead and tenuous mousse. The nose is explosive and intense with marzipan, yeasty bread, honey, apple and mushrooms.The palate is a delight, with lovely, balanced mouth-filling honeyed flavour and with an excellent core of acid to take it into to a very long finish.
93/100
2002 Domaine Laroche Chablis Premier Cru Vieilles Vignes Les Fourchaumes
Open with aromatic floral notes, as well as pomegranate, orange and peaches - very pure nose. Medium intensity and great depth of minerality and flavour on the palate leading into a long, clean finish. Really delicious to drink now, but will probably be better in 3 years time.
90/100
1999 Maison Louis Latour Cote de Beaune-Villages
A light, stewy nose with a touch of oak but not much else of note. Palate is awkward and disjointed. I feel that this may have been a poor bottle.
NR/100
2000 Domain Alain Burguet Gevrey-Chambertin En Reniard
Violet, strawberry, earth and wet hay on the nose. The palate is balanced but is simple and lacks depth. Probably around its peak and nicely drinkable, but nothing more.
87/100
2000 Domaine Fourrier Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos St. Jacques Vieille Vignes
Lots of cherry with some gamey complexity, undergrowth and earth. Good texture and palate length with the complexity of the palate not really matching that of the nose. Still, a lovely wine with some potential to improve.
90/100
2003 Two Hands Max’s Garden Heathcote Shiraz
A bold, attractive nose of blueberry, cherry, spice, raspberry plus some coffee and cedar. The palate is quite restrained with the fruit richness balanced against some savoury characters. The initial wave of flavour trails off slightly toward the finish. Quite good structure overall, although I think it is going to be drinking at its best over the next couple of years.
90/100
A group of food and wine lovers from blogs and from the wider community have gathered together again this year to offer a Menu for Hope. This year they are raising money for the United Nations World Food Programme. For every $10 (USD) donated before the 22nd of December, you receive one ticket in a raffle to be drawn early next year. There are some fantastic prizes that have been donated in the Asia Pacific region, including dining vouchers at some exceptional restaurants, food hampers, signed books and more.
For more information on how to donate toward this very worthy cause and for specifics on prizes available in Australia and Asia, visit Grab Your Fork.
I attended three masterclasses as part of the Sydney Good Living Wine Show in late October. I posted on the Lanson/Gauthier Champagne class here.
This class where a Melbourne based chocolatier matched handmade chocolates to Buller Rutherglenn fortified wines was one of the highlights of the day.
Buller Fine Old Malmsey NV with Honey and milk chocolate praline in a milk chocolate cocoa pod
A light nose of honey, toffee, orange peel, apple and a slight oxidative note. The palate is slightly sweet, with decent length, but there is a lack of concentration and complexity.
86/100
Buller Fine Old Liqueur Tawny NV with Blood orange caramel filling and dark chocolate
Cherry, blackcurrant/cassis and a spirity essence on the nose. Palate is a bit hot and awkward, with some intensity but not much depth.
82/100
Buller Fine Old Tawny NV with Layered milk and dark chocolate praline
A nose of tobacco, caramel and toffee. The palate is rich and mouthfilling, but there is no real depth and the finish tails off much too quickly.
83/100
Buller Fine Old Tokay NV with Dark chocolate and vanilla bean ganache
Rich aromas of butterscotch, malt, caramel, rancio and a touch of spirit. The palate is sweet and rich, yet with very good balance. Some depth and complexity and a medium length finish with a twist of spirit.
88/100
Buller Fine Old Muscat NV with Ginger and blood orange ganache
Raisins, caramel, fruitcake and smoke on the nose. A very sweet palate that borders on being too sweet. Smoothly textured and with good length, though it lacks in complexity.
86/100
Bulller “Calliope” Rare Tokay NV with Blackcurrant ganache and dark chocolate
Intense aromatics - caramel, toffee, rancio, raisins, almond and fig. The palate is full bodied, intense and with a refreshing freshness across its excellent length. Even the smallest sip fills your mouth with flavour. Much less spiky alcohol this time compared to the time that I tried it last at an offline.
93/100
Buller “Callope” Rare Muscat NV with Milk chocolate caramel coffee dipped in milk chocolate
Explosive nose of raisin, burnt brown sugar, maple syrup, spice, toffee, smoke and molasses. Incredible concentration of complex flavours on the palate, with stunning richness and an acid structure that somehow manages to balance and carry the deep sweetness. The finish goes on forever. This is quite simply, an incredible wine.
96/100
I don’t think I will ever meet as generous a group of people as those that I have met through my brief love of wine. This was the third and last of these dinners (first, second) for 2006 where each person brings something special to the best of their ability. Some amazing wines were brought to Claude’s restaurant in Woollahra and it was a wonderful night among friends.
Rillettes of hare and sterling caviar
Smoked salmon consommé
with:
1992 Moet et Chandon Cuvee Dom Perignon Rose
Was pale pink salmon in colour with a nose that gives off complex aromas of mushroom, earth, game and fresh strawberry and cherry. Had an elegant, delicate palate with a touch of fruit sweetness broadening out the mouthfeel and leading into a lingering finish. This was a most promising start to proceedings.
92/100
1980 Krug Clos du Mesnil Brut Blanc de Blancs
A brilliant sun gold in colour. Deep and rich notes of apricot, floral scents, mango, marzipan and a touch of almond draw you into the aged yet still fresh nose. If the nose somehow did not do it, then the very first taste leaves no doubt that this is something special. The palate exhibits flawless balance, striking purity and depth of flavour. Beautiful focus and carry into a wondrously long, clean, breathtaking finish. A truly exceptional, wonderful experience that has left an indelible impression on me.
98/100
Chicken galantine with foie gras
with:
1967 Chateau d’Yquem
A deep caramel colour. A bursting nose that really grabs hold of you with its intensity and layers of aroma - caramel, molasses, marmalade, cedar, marzipan, acetone and roasted nuts. The power and depth of the unctuous palate is truly astounding, with waves and waves of complex flavours. Nigh on perfect balance with a clean, lingering finish that left me looking forward to each and every sip. Superb.
97/100
1975 Chateau d’Yquem
Glowing amber-gold colour. Initially the nose is subdued and then suddenly it begins to unfold and reveal the most captivating, amazing aromas of apple, pear, musky perfume, peach, apricot, honey, pineapple, citrus peel and rose petals - it seemed as though every with every sniff another entrancing layer of aroma was revealed. I take a sip and I’m glad that I’m sitting down as I am almost overwhelmed by its brilliance. The palate is scintillating - for a wine to display such power and elegance simultaneously seems almost impossible. Utterly flawless balance. Twinkles across the palate into an endless finish.
Completely memorising and moving. Three weeks after tasting it, I am still rendered speechless and almost breathless every time I think about it. Perfect.
100/100
Grilled marron
with:
1988 Domaine Ramonet Batard-Montrachet
A slightly lighter colour than the 1998. Opens with a nose of intense sesame prawn toast and rubber. With time, the rubber dissipated somewhat although the sesame remained along with gunflint, smoke and grapefruit. A toasty palate with good structure initially thanks to a strong core of acid that carries a bit too strongly into the slightly short finish.
88/100
1998 Domaine Ramonet Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet
The nose is cheesy and reminiscent of lightly buttered toast, there were also some pear, lemon and apple undertones coming through. Very delicately flavoured on the palate with the high acid providing backbone. Needs to be given some time to develop the depth that is lacking at the moment.
90/100
2002 Domaine Bouchard Pere et Fils Corton-Charlemagne
A delightfully restrained but layered nose of lemon, sea spray, oyster shells, grapefruit and nougat. Outstanding concentration of flavour, with the power focused into a tightly coiled, acid driven, balanced line across the palate and into an excellent length finish. I loved it and I think it is sure to get better with time.
93/100
Aylesbury duck with sauce from the press
with:
1985 Domain Georges Mugneret Nuits-St.-Georges Les Chaignots
Corked.
NR/100
1985 Domaine de la Romanee-Conti La Tache
A deeply perfumed, musky aroma of violets and roses that became even more pronounced while being left to sit in the glass, as well as fallen leaves (that enjoyable scent of autumn decay), earth, mushroom and subtle spice. The palate is long and delicate, lacking only enough fruit to entirely balance the acid profile.
92/100
1988 Domaine Jean Grivot Richebourg
Strong aromas of freshly ground coffee beans with some rhubarb, delicate spices and underlying sweet red fruits - after 20 minutes some complex earth and smoked meat aromas emerge. A long, balanced palate with a lovely, defining texture to it. There is tannin present, contributing to the structure but not getting in the way of balance or the focus across the line of the wine. Very good, although near to its peak and lacking the complexity to be brilliant.
92/100
Spring lamb, asparagus with madeira jus
with:
1975 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild
Dominant cedar on the nose with some background aromas of coffee, blackberry and cinnamon. Well balanced on the softly elegant palate, including the tannins which serve to enhance the structure and mouthfeel. Lacks complexity and depth, but enjoyable to drink none the less.
91/100
1975 Domaine Cheval Blanc
The nose is comprised of black cherry kirsch, cedar, earth and olive tapenade. The palate is austere, dominated by oak and tannins and there is no depth of fruit or flavour. This bottle has crossed its zenith and was headed downward.
86/100
1981 Chateau Margaux
A swirling, perfumed, floral nose of cedar, tobacco, cherry, plums and raspberry. The medium-bodied palate is highly skilled in the art of seduction and all the components seem well integrated and balanced. With good length and nice depth, this is extremely enjoyable drinking at the peak of this wines life.
There may be some hope for me in my search for great wines from 1981 yet!
93/100
1982 Chateau Cos d’Estournel
Nose of dense, wet earth as well as spice, tobacco and undertones of complex dried meats. An intense and youthful palate with fine tannins standing out currently. The length of the palate is excellent as well as having impressive structural quality. The slightly aggressive palate means that this isn’t drinking as well now as the Margaux right now but its superior structure will allow it to develop layers of complexity and to be better with 5-8 years of additional age, if this bottle is anything to go by.
92/100
1985 Chateau Leoville Las-Cases
Graphite and cedar lead the nose but some rather green capsicum and stalky characters are hard to get past. The palate is soft and simple, lacking depth and interest. Prominent acid on the back palate leaves the finish short and ultimately unsatisfying. Much better bottles have been had by others attending the dinner in the past.
86/100
Fillet of grass-fed Wagyu beef with green vegetables
with:
1987 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline
Intense smoky meat on the nose along with freshly brewed coffee and pepper. On the palate the fruit has faded and it is drying out . This bottle was looking quite tired and certainly tasting as though it had seen much better days.
84/100
1994 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline
Incredible, intense floral and violet aromatics are the centrepiece of a brilliant, layered nose that also shows five spice, white pepper, cherry and bacon fat. Completely seductive and elegant on the palate - lush and velvet-textured with incredible depth and complexity of flavour, while maintaining excellent structure, balance and stunning length. Brilliant, glorious and certainly my favourite red wine tonight.
96/100
1992 M. Chapoutier Ermitage Le Pavillon
Some confronting aromas of dried and smoked meat, leather, barnyard, mushrooms and bramble. Savoury and softly bodied with alright balance and length, but seems to lack depth and much of interest on the palate. I didn’t find the bretty aromas on the nose especially offensive, but if such things are not to your liking then I don’t think this would be the wine for you.
88/100
Cheese
Avocado blancmange with coconut
Vanilla & strawberry soufflé
with:
1977 Taylors Vintage Port
Corked.
NR/100