Castagna Sauvage 2003 Fast Facts:
Variety: Shiraz, a bit of Viognier and the slightest dash of Sangiovese.
Region: Beechworth Victoria
Country: Australia
Winemaker: Julian Castagna
Closure: Diam Cork

There is no doubt that 2003 was a tough year for winemakers in some parts of Australia. One of the worst affected areas was in northern Victoria in an area called Beechworth. Normally a cool climate region, 2003 brought drought, heatwaves and perhaps worst of all bushfires and the smoke that comes with them.

Many of Beechworth’s producers didn’t release their premium label wines in 2003, this includes the brightest star of the region Giaconda, who only released their Cabernet Sauvignon.

Julian Castagna felt that although his vineyard was only minimally impacted from the smoke, the intense heat meant that the grapes weren’t up to their usual standard and style. Thus, some of the best grapes that normally go into his premium Genesis Shiraz Viognier (approx $70AU) and his highly regarded La Chiave Sangiovese (approx $75AU) would be put into a blend called Sauvage and released for $35AU with the premium labels not being released this vintage.

It was a decision that must have been a difficult one to make, but in the end I think it was the right one. The customers were not made to pay a premium amount for a wine that the winemaker thinks is not up to scratch and this can only be good for customer loyalty in the long run, not to mention attracting new customers at the lower price point and enticing them to try the premium labels next vintage.

Tasting Note: Deep ruby-red in colour. A smoky, meaty nose with a very nice floral lift and a touch of apricot from the Viognier. The palate is savoury and consists of more meaty elements - bacon, salami and pepperoni along with plummy fruit, spices and a flash of pepper. Everything is delivered on the front and mid-palate with the back-palate being a tad thin.

When to Drink: Probably at its best now.

Verdict: I really liked it - complex and full of interest, it is super stuff from a tough vintage for the Beechworth region. 91 points.